All About Coffee

Chapter 73

22 27.08 22-1/8 27.23 22-1/4 27.38 22-3/8 27.53 22-1/2 27.68 22-5/8 27.83 22-3/4 27.98 22-7/8 28.13

23 28.27 23-1/8 28.42 23-1/4 28.57 23-3/8 28.72 23-1/2 28.87 23-5/8 29.02 23-3/4 29.17 23-7/8 29.32

24 29.46 24-1/8 29.61 24-1/4 29.76 24-3/8 29.91 24-1/2 30.06 24-5/8 30.21 24-3/4 30.36 24-7/8 30.51

25 30.65 25-1/8 30.80 25-1/4 30.95 25-3/8 31.10 25-1/2 31.25 25-5/8 31.40 25-3/4 31.55 25-7/8 31.70

26 31.85 26-1/8 31.99 26-1/4 32.14 26-3/8 32.29 26-1/2 32.44 26-5/8 32.59 26-3/4 32.74 26-7/8 32.89

27 33.04 27-1/8 33.18 27-1/4 33.33 27-3/8 33.48 27-1/2 33.63 27-5/8 33.78 27-3/4 33.93 27-7/8 34.08

28 34.23 28-1/8 34.38 28-1/4 34.52 28-3/8 34.67 28-1/2 34.82 28-5/8 34.97 28-3/4 35.12 28-7/8 35.27

29 35.42 29-1/8 35.57 29-1/4 35.71 29-3/8 35.86 29-1/2 36.01 29-5/8 36.16 29-3/4 36.31 29-7/8 36.46

30 36.61 30-1/8 36.76 30-1/4 36.90 30-3/8 37.05 30-1/2 37.20 30-5/8 37.35 30-3/4 37.50 30-7/8 37.65

31 37.80 31-1/8 37.95 31-1/4 38.10 31-3/8 38.24 31-1/2 38.39 31-5/8 38.54 31-3/4 38.69 31-7/8 38.84

32 38.90 32-1/8 39.14 32-1/4 39.29 32-3/8 39.43 32-1/2 39.58 32-5/8 39.73 32-3/4 39.88 32-7/8 40.03

FACTORY PREPARATION

A GREEN COFFEE SHRINKAGE TABLE

_Showing shrinkage in roasting of raw coffee in quant.i.ties from sixty pounds up to three hundred pounds, and at six different shrinkage percentages_

Compiled by R.C. Wilhelm, New York

RAW 12% 13% 14% 15% 16% 17%

60 52-3/4 52-1/4 51-1/2 51 50-1/2 49-3/4 61 53-3/4 53 52-1/2 51-3/4 51-1/4 50-3/4 62 54-1/2 54 53-1/4 52-1/4 52 51-1/2 63 55-1/2 54-3/4 54 53-1/2 53 52-1/4 64 56-1/4 55-3/4 55 54-1/2 53-3/4 53 65 57-1/4 56-1/2 56 55-1/4 54-1/2 54 66 58 57-1/2 56-3/4 56 55-1/2 54-3/4 67 59 58-1/4 57-3/4 57 56-1/4 55-1/2 68 59-3/4 59-1/4 58-1/2 57-3/4 57 56-1/2 69 60-3/4 60 59-1/4 58-3/4 58 57-1/4 70 61-1/2 61 60-1/4 59-1/2 58-3/4 58 71 62-1/2 61-3/4 61 60-1/4 59-3/4 59 72 63-1/4 62-3/4 62 61 60-1/2 59-3/4 73 64-1/4 63-1/2 62-3/4 62 61-1/4 60-1/2 74 65 64-1/2 63-3/4 63 62-1/4 61-1/2 75 66 65-1/4 64-1/2 63-3/4 63 62-1/4 76 67 66 65-1/4 64-1/2 63-3/4 63 77 67-3/4 67 66-1/4 65-1/2 64-3/4 64 78 68-3/4 68 67 66-1/4 65-1/2 64-3/4 79 69-1/2 68-3/4 68 67-1/4 66-1/2 65-3/4 80 70-1/2 69-3/4 68-3/4 68 67-1/4 66-1/2 81 71-1/4 70-1/2 69-3/4 69 68 67-1/4 82 72-1/4 71-1/2 70-1/2 69-3/4 69 68 83 73 72-1/4 71-1/2 70-1/2 69-3/4 69 84 74 73-1/4 72-1/4 71-1/2 70-1/2 69-3/4 85 74-3/4 74 73-1/4 72-1/4 71-1/4 70-1/2 86 75-3/4 74-3/4 74 73-1/4 72-1/4 71-1/4 87 76-1/2 75-3/4 75 74 73-1/4 72-1/4 88 77-1/2 76-1/2 75-3/4 74-3/4 73-3/4 73 89 78-1/2 77-1/2 76-1/2 75-3/4 74-3/4 74 90 79-1/4 78-1/4 77-1/2 76-1/2 75-3/4 75 91 80-1/2 79-1/4 78-1/4 77-1/2 76-1/2 75-1/2 92 81 80 79-1/4 78-1/4 77-1/4 76-1/2 93 82 81 80 79 78-1/4 77-1/4 94 82-3/4 81-3/4 80-3/4 80 79 78 95 83-3/4 82-3/4 81-3/4 80-3/4 79-3/4 79 96 84-1/2 83-1/2 82-1/2 81-3/4 80-3/4 79-3/4 97 85-1/2 84-1/2 83-1/2 82-1/2 81-1/2 80-1/2 98 86-1/4 85-1/4 84-1/4 83-1/4 82-1/2 81-1/2 99 87-1/4 86-1/4 85-1/4 84-1/4 83-1/4 82-1/4 100 88 87 86 85 84 83 101 89 87-1/2 86-1/2 85-1/2 84-1/2 83-1/2 102 89-3/4 88-3/4 87-3/4 86-3/4 85-3/4 84-3/4 103 90-3/4 89-3/4 88-3/4 87-1/2 86-1/2 85-1/2 104 91-1/2 90-1/2 89-1/2 88-1/2 87-1/2 86-1/2 105 92-1/2 91-1/2 90-1/4 89-1/4 88-1/4 87-1/4 106 93-1/4 92-1/4 91-1/4 90-1/4 89 88 107 94-1/4 93-1/4 92 91 90 88-3/4 108 95 94 93 91-3/4 90-3/4 89-3/4 109 96 95 93-3/4 92-3/4 91-1/2 90-1/2 110 96-3/4 95-3/4 94-3/4 93-1/2 92-1/2 91-3/4 111 97-3/4 96-3/4 95-1/2 94-1/2 93-1/4 92-1/4 112 98-1/2 97-1/2 96-1/2 95-1/4 94-1/4 93 113 99-1/2 98-1/4 97-1/4 96 95 93-3/4 114 100-1/2 99-1/4 98 97 95-3/4 94-3/4 115 101-1/4 100-1/2 99 97-3/4 96-3/4 95-1/2 116 102 101 99-3/4 98-1/2 97-1/2 96-1/4 117 103 101-3/4 100-1/2 99-1/2 98-1/4 97 118 103-3/4 102-1/2 101-1/2 100-1/4 99 98 119 104-3/4 103-1/2 102-1/4 101 100 98-3/4 120 105-1/2 104-1/2 103 102 101 99-1/2 121 106-1/2 105-1/4 104 102-3/4 101-1/2 100-1/2 122 107-1/2 106 105 103-1/2 102-1/2 101-1/2 123 108-1/4 107 105-3/4 104-1/2 103-1/4 102 124 109 108 106-1/2 105-1/2 104 103 125 110 108-3/4 107-1/2 106-1/4 105 103-3/4 126 111 109-1/2 108 107 106 104-1/2 127 111-3/4 110-1/2 109-1/4 108 106-3/4 105-1/2 128 112-1/2 111-1/2 110 109 107-1/2 106 129 113-1/2 112-1/4 111 109-3/4 108-1/4 107 130 114-1/2 113 112 110-1/2 109 108 131 115-1/4 114 112-3/4 111-1/4 110 108-3/4 132 116 115 113-1/2 112 111 109-1/2 133 117 115-3/4 114-1/4 113 111-3/4 110-1/4 134 118 116-1/2 115-1/2 114 112-1/2 111 135 118-3/4 117-1/2 116 114-3/4 113-1/4 112 136 119-1/2 118-1/2 117 115-1/2 114 113 137 120-1/2 119-1/4 117-3/4 116-1/2 115 113-3/4 138 121-1/2 120 118-1/2 117-1/2 116 114-1/2 139 122-1/4 121 119-1/2 118-1/4 116-3/4 115-1/4 140 123-1/4 121-3/4 120-1/2 119 117-1/2 116-1/4 141 124 122-3/4 121-1/4 119-3/4 118-1/2 117 142 125 123-1/2 122 120-3/4 119-1/4 117-3/4 143 125-3/4 124-1/2 123 121-1/2 120 118-3/4 144 126-3/4 125-1/4 123-3/4 122-1/2 121 119-1/2 145 127-1/2 126-1/4 124-3/4 123-1/4 121-3/4 120-1/4 146 128-1/2 127 125-1/2 124 122-3/4 121-1/4 147 129-1/4 128 126-1/2 125 123-1/2 122 148 130-1/4 128-3/4 127-1/4 125-3/4 124-1/4 122-3/4 149 131 129-3/4 128-1/4 126-3/4 125-1/4 123-3/4 150 132 130-1/2 129 127-1/2 126 124-1/2 151 133 131-1/4 129-3/4 128-1/4 126-3/4 125-1/4 152 133-3/4 132-1/4 130-3/4 129-1/4 127-3/4 126-1/4 153 134-3/4 133 131-1/2 130 128-1/2 127 154 135-1/2 134 132-1/2 131 129-1/4 127-3/4 155 136-1/2 134-3/4 133-1/4 131-3/4 130-1/4 128-3/4 156 137-1/4 135-3/4 134-1/4 132-1/2 131 129-1/2 157 138-1/4 136-1/2 135 133-1/2 132 130-1/4 158 139 137-1/2 136 134-1/4 132-3/4 131-1/4

[Ill.u.s.tration: TRYING THE ROAST]

_Cooling and Stoning_

"Coffee which leaves the roaster beautifully uniform in appearance", says A.L. Burns, "may lose all uniformity by delayed or inadequate cooling. Separated beans of coffee will cool off by themselves; but when heaped together, the inner part of the ma.s.s will get hotter and even take fire.... Coffee must be spread over a considerable surface, or all kept moving, and have at the same time a lot of air forced through it.

Otherwise, there will be some darkening and over-development of part of the coffee, and a loss of the uniformity which is the first requirement of good roasting."

[Ill.u.s.tration: MONITOR GAS ROASTER]

[Ill.u.s.tration: A GROUP OF ROASTING-ROOM ACCESSORIES]

The cooling apparatus consists of a movable, box-like metal car which can be brought up to the front of the roaster to the revolving cylinders. The car has a perforated false bottom, to which is attached a powerful exhaust-fan system that sucks the heat out of the coffee. In large plants, utilizing two or more floors, the tilting-type cooling car is favored. This car permits instant discharge through an opening in the floor into a receiving tank suspended from the ceiling below and connected with the stoning apparatus. Recently, a flexible-arm cooler has been invented that provides full fan suction to a cooler car at all points in its track travel from the roaster to the emptying position.

[Ill.u.s.tration: DUMPING THE ROAST IN A COAL ROASTING PLANT

The roasted coffee is being turned into the cooling car, equipped with a swinging "flexarm" that keeps it always in connection with a suspended header pipe; the cooling being started as soon as the coffee leaves the roaster. The cooled coffee, by tipping the box, goes into a floor hopper]

The stoner, an essential part of the modern roasting plant, has for its function the removal of stones and other foreign matter of which the green-coffee operations have failed to get rid. The stoner is usually built in direct combination with the cooling equipment, and does its work by means of a gravity separation in an upward-moving column of air.

The coffee pa.s.ses into the suction boot of the stoner, either directly from the cooler box or from a floor hopper into which the cooler dumps, and is carried up the stoner pipe, or "riser", by an air current of ample power which can be accurately regulated. This insures the carrying up of coffee only, the stones remaining at the bottom of the machine and being dumped at intervals into a pan underneath. The coffee, pa.s.sing up the riser pipe, is delivered into a large "stoner hopper" which is usually hung to the ceiling of the roasting room. The correct construction of this hopper is of great importance, as the coffee must be deposited completely without breakage, and the air must pa.s.s on through the suction fan carrying nothing except bits of loose chaff.

A different type of cooler is in the form of an upright cylinder, consisting of two metal perforated drums, one set within the other. The inner drum is sufficiently small to allow the coffee to move freely between the drums. Inside the smaller one is an exhaust pipe which draws the heat and chaff out of the coffee. This device is recommended for use only in connection with wet roasted coffee.

Still another type consists of a single perforated cylinder set horizontal with the floor, and revolving alongside of an exhaust box which sucks out the heat and chaff as the coffee is tumbled about in the cylinder. A rocking type, that is not generally employed, is constructed on the principle of the screen used by housebuilders to separate coa.r.s.e sand from the fine, and is pivoted at the middle so that it can be rocked end to end.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A FOUR-BAG COFFEE FINISHER]

_Finis.h.i.+ng or Glazing_

Finis.h.i.+ng whole-bean roasted coffee, by giving it a friction polish while it is still moist, using a glaze solution or water only, is a practise not harmful if the proper solutions are employed. Roasted coffee dulls in ordinary handling, and it is claimed that coating not only improves its appearance, but serves also to preserve the natural flavor and aroma of the bean. A machine having flat-sided wooden cylinders with ventilated heads, and operated two-thirds full of coffee so as to get an effective rolling motion, is generally employed.

Coatings composed of sugar and eggs are popular, but their use should be stated on the label.

Coffee roasters are divided on this question of coffee-coating. The best thought of the trade is undoubtedly opposed to the practise when it is done to conceal inferiority or abnormally to reduce shrinkage. Some New York coffee roasters, who made a thorough investigation of the matter, found coating coffee with a wholesome material not injurious and the coated coffee better in the cup. Dr. Harvey W. Wiley found, in the celebrated Ohio case against Arbuckle Brothers, that coating coffee with sugar and eggs produced beneficial results, and that the coating preserved the bean. The Bureau of Chemistry has never issued any ruling on the subject of coating coffee.

_Blending Roasted Coffee_

After cooling and stoning, unless it is to be polished or glazed, the coffee is ready for grinding and packing if it has been blended in the green state. Otherwise, the next step will be to mix the different varieties before grinding, although some packers blend the different kinds after they have been ground. To mix whole-bean roasted coffee without hurting its appearance is rather difficult, and there is no regular machine for such work.

[Ill.u.s.tration: BURNS SAMPLE-COFFEE ROASTER]

Rarely is a single kind of coffee drunk straight. The common practise in all countries is to mix different varieties having opposing characteristics so as to obtain a smoother beverage. This is called blending, a process that has attained the standing of an art in the United States. Most package coffees are blends. In addition to other qualities, the practical coffee blender must have a natural apt.i.tude for the work. He must also have long experience before he becomes proficient, and must be acquainted with the different properties of all the coffees grown, or at least of those that come to his market.

Furthermore, he must know the variations in characteristics of current crops; for in most coffees no two crops are equal in trade values.

Innumerable blends are possible with more than a hundred different coffees to draw upon.

A blend may consist of two or more kinds of coffee, but the general practise is to employ several kinds; so that, if at any time one can not be obtained, its absence from the blend will not be so noticeable as would be the case if only two or three kinds were used.

In blending coffees, consideration is given first to the shades of flavor in the cup and next to price. The blender describes flavors as, acidy, bitter, smooth, neutral, flat, wild, gra.s.sy, groundy, sour, fermented, and hidey; and he mixes the coffees accordingly to obtain the desired taste in the cup. Naturally the wild, sour, groundy, fermented, and hidey kinds are avoided as much as possible. Coffees with a Rio flavor are used only in the cheaper blends.

Generally speaking, a properly balanced blend should have a full rich body as a basis; and to this should be added a growth to give it some acid character, and one to give it increased aroma.

Personal preference is the determining factor in making up a blend. Some blenders prefer a coffee with plenty of acid taste; while others choose the non-acid cup. For the first-named kind, the blender will mix together the coffees that have an acidy characteristic; while for a non-acidy blend, he will mix an acidy growth with one having a neutral flavor.

[Ill.u.s.tration: LAMBERT ECONOMIC COFFEE-ROASTING OUTFIT FOR COAL FIRE

This is a self-contained plant for one or two bags, and comprises a roaster, rotary cooler, elevator feed hopper, electric motor, and stoning and chaffing attachments. It may be equipped for gas]

Coffees can be divided into four great cla.s.ses, the neutral-flavored, the sweet, the acidy, and the bitter. All East Indian coffees, except Ceylons, Malabars, and the other Hindoostan growths, are cla.s.sified as bitter, as are old brown Bucaramangas, brown Bogotas, and brown Santos.

The acid coffees are generally the new-crop washed varieties of the western hemisphere, such as Mexicans, Costa Ricas, Bogotas, Caracas, Guatemalas, Santos, etc. However, the acidity may be toned down by age so that they become sweet or sweet-bitter. Red Santos is generally a sweet coffee, and is prized by blenders. High-grade washed Santo Domingo and Haiti coffees are sweet both when new crop and when aged.

Practical coffee blenders do not mix two new-crop acid coffees, or two old-crop bitter kinds, unless their bitterness or acidity is counteracted by coffees with opposite flavors. One blender insists that every blend should contain three coffees.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CHALLENGE PULVERIZER]



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